Travel

Prague! Part Two.

We packed a lot into the five days I was in Prague, including a train ride to Karlstejn, a tiny town whose tourism centers around a nearby castle.

We lunched at an adorable family-run bistro whose owner made the entire patio of diners laugh when he invited us to follow them on Instagram and pointed to the “like” counter mounted on the wall.

Its numbers changed as we got out our phones and liked their page. The kids went wild.

After lunch we hiked on wooded trails behind the castle to a series of rock quarries. The largest has been called the Czech Grand Canyon. They were deep and beautiful. Clever turning former industrial property into a destination by surrounding it with hiking trails.

Another day we visited the Jewish quarter, where four synagogues and one tiny cemetery filled with over 12,000 bodies sit in close proximity.

The artistry in each synagogue was impressive, the associated history sobering.

On the other side of the city, we took an elevator to the top of the Žižkov Tower, whose ugly architecture contrasts sharply with the beautiful neighborhoods around it. The creepy metal babies crawling up the side were created by David Cerny, whose sculptures dot the city. We saw several without even trying, including a man that hangs unnervingly from a pole in a square called “Man Hanging Out.”

At the top of the tower, we were treated to this unbelievable view. Just look at those colors.

And the thoughtful arrangement of the buildings. Each set of housing units surrounds an open courtyard, so everyone has outside access.

Green parks large and small appear at every turn.

Whether it’s classic architecture, edgy sculptures, or graffiti, art is everywhere. Prague has all the charm and history you expect from Europe but with the added edge and grit of a truly creative community.

And not only are there parks. There are things to do and see in them. We found these tiny trampolines next to a paved walking path that led to a giant iconic horse sculpture.

Another day we took a bus to the edge of the city to the Prague Botanic Garden. As you might expect by now, it was thoughtfully designed too.

I listened to a recent Armchair Expert interview with Gretchen Rubin, who talked about using the five senses to be more mindful.

The Botanic Garden put this concept into action.

There were at least three exhibits that invited you to sniff different scents, from natural oils to the different grape varietals grown in the surrounding vineyards.

Sculptures that make sounds when you touch them.

We saw an outdoor movie screen surrounded by chairs where people were relaxing. Another area was filled with hammocks. It struck me how much effort they put into creating different spaces and ways for people of all types to engage with the same property.

The same could be said for my favorite place from the whole trip, which we stumbled upon completely by accident. All because of this big pink sculpture.

It sat just inside a large metal door and acted as a wordless sign that said “Come on in!”

We walked into a “cultural center” known as Kasarna Karlin. Surrounded by five-story buildings that were built to house the Austro-Hungrian army in the 1840s, this multi-faceted social space is part of a larger revitalization effort in a part of the city that declined after a flood devastated it in 2002.

Talk about something for everyone. On the left as you walk in, next to a row of rental scooters and bikes, tucked into a wall of green ivy, is a retro Photo Booth. Behind that is a cluster of yellow chairs where people can lounge and watch an athletic game of volleyball being played in the sand court.

In the center is a large metal unicorn sculpture. Around it are trees and picnic tables where people can eat and drink.

Multiple vendors offered coffee, food, beers, and even fancy mixed drinks.

There’s an outdoor movie screen, surrounded by sunny yellow chairs and tables. And a fire pit. And sometimes techno parties.

And of course, a kids playground with a sandbox and a climbing wall. This wasn’t the first time we saw a space where parents could drink beer while their children played. How civilized.

In case you are still wondering, the answer is yes. You should definitely visit Prague. Its relaxed pace and commitment to free public amenities gives me hope for humanity.

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Prague! Part One.

My flight to Prague arrived just after midnight. It was dark and drizzly outside, and I saw nothing of the city on the bus ride to my friend Amy’s apartment. Imagine my surprise when I woke the next day, opened the tall, ornate windows, and found this outside.

There was art and architecture EVERYWHERE.

The sidewalks all over the city are made with 2’’x 2’’ stone tiles. The patterns vary, but even new sidewalks are constructed this same way. They are easy to walk on and beautiful to behold.

The color palette of the buildings is so tight, I actually googled to see if it is regulated. I couldn’t find anything, but I definitely noted the absence of any garish colors. We wondered if the inspiration comes from natural pigments. The terracotta clay tiles on the roofs are distinctive, and the colorful buildings complement them perfectly.

In addition to beautiful architecture from so many different eras—especially Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque—we found large, green parks filled with trees and places to relax everywhere we went. And we went a lot of places. We walked nine miles per day for at least three of the days I was there.

Art appeared in so many—sometimes unexpected—places. The long series of yellow penguins shown below lights up at night. I spotted it from across the river, and later we had a beer at the adjacent cafe just so we could sit next to them.

People seem relaxed. The many public spaces are filled with all types and ages, hanging out and chatting. Sometimes drinking a beer (which is cheaper than water!), but never openly intoxicated.

Graffiti is embraced and not just reserved for “alternative” spaces.

The Vltava River, which runs through the city, has peddle boats for rent, large sets of pool balls that act as bumpers, and a bright pink covered boat labeled “Bar” that serves people on the water. The public amenities seem to be created by people with a sense of humor.

The combinations of old and new and quirky and classy are just everywhere. I felt like there was a beautiful surprise just waiting to be found down every street. Check out the subtle line drawing on the beer bar above, where the mug slowly transitions into goat. Funny, right?

In the Old Town section, you can take your pick from beautifully crafted pastries to the offerings of a nearby sex shop before emerging into a giant historical square filled with people speaking all sorts of languages.

All this within walking distance of the apartment. As you might guess, I took hundreds of pictures. So I divided this trip into three separate posts. Next up includes the coolest public space I’ve seen yet.

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Sights and Inspiration from My Surprise London Detour

The flight I booked to Prague included a three-hour layover in Heathrow, which seemed perfect. The 12-hour layover that turned into once my initial connecter was cancelled, slightly less so. But thanks to the wondrous internet, I found an article with such specific instructions on how to tackle a London layover (store your bag here, buy a train ticket there, get off at this stop, etc.) that I quickly downed my coffee and got to it.

The recommended stop took me through a sprawling park filled with lounging people and ancient trees, and directly to Buckingham Palace. I know plenty about the inside of that place from watching The Crown, so I didn’t bother trying to book a tour.

Nonetheless, it was quite something to see those (dare I say ridiculous?) palace guards in their giant fur hats high-stepping it back and forth in front of the entrance.

Curiosity satisfied, I headed through the Palace grounds toward the River Thames. The streets in between were filled with tourists wandering around Westminster Abbey and posing in front of Big Ben.

I liked seeing the red double decker buses in person—they’re just so quintessentially London. The ferris wheel in the distance was a fun surprise. Why not insert a visually dramatic carnival ride right in the middle of your river walk?

The scene along the South Bank was definitely my favorite. If there’s one thing I learned on this trip, it’s that there’s a formula for great community development: Include a little something for everyone.

This area had some really great visuals, such as this polka dot creature (a panther, I think?) and his brightly-colored companion.

There were tons of food and drink options, of course. Some so creatively designed, they just begged you to stop and explore. Love the reuse of metal food cans here to create the 3-D BBQ sign.

Colorful planters filled with greenery tall enough to provide a nice visual barrier added some classy privacy for this outdoor seating area.

This was an arts and cultural district for sure, but that didn’t stop them from including a skate park filled with graffiti right next to the main path. Kids were skating and an artist was creating as I walked by. I love seeing this art form channelled rather than scorned. Suddenly this underused space offers something to see and something to do.

The hardscape included sculptural features that were clearly fun for kids. Playground equipment is not always needed.

Since I’ve been collaborating with several groups to help bring a maker space to Downtown Morgantown, I was really excited to discover that London has done a very similar thing.

The first floor of the building above was filled with retail shops. The top had a nice restaurant with a view.

The floors in between offered individual workspaces for artists and craftspeople.

Even the common hallways got some artistic attention.

The courtyard behind had its own intrigue, including a giant digital sign shaped like an iPhone that offered up information and an associated QR code.

Naturally all of this was done at big city scale, but the concepts are repeatable. We can do this here.

I couldn’t tell if the art on the wall above was part of a construction site or permanent, but it added some colorful vibrancy either way.

I ended my little walking tour in the gardens around the Palace. I wasn’t expecting this group of pelicans next to the pond, seemingly unbothered by the throngs of people walking by and stopping to stare.

My legs felt blissfully exhausted as I headed back to the airport for the next phase of my travel adventure.

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Get an Early Spring Fix at Phipps

This morning I saw the early green leaves of tulips and allium in my garden, which feels promising. Spring is just a few weeks away, technically speaking, though I’m sure plenty of cold days remain.

If you need an early warm weather fix in the meantime, I have just the answer: take a trip to Phipps Conservatory in Pittsburgh. Right now they have both an Orchid and Tropical Bonsai show and a Tropical Forest Hawaii exhibit.

These plants require warm air to thrive, of course, so walking through the various sections where they’re growing feels like taking a trip to the tropics. The variety and beauty of these plants was truly amazing.

The food at the cafe was pretty tasty too. Food & Wine called it one of the best museum restaurants in the country, in fact.

In my mind I had been to Phipps before. I remembered it as cool but with too many birds. My mind turned out to be wrong; I was thinking of the aviary. This place is pleasantly bird-free.

I love the feeling of being transported to a new place, even if just for a few hours.

Just looking at natural beauty is surprisingly uplifting. Hope this tides you over until the spring blossoms really start to pop.

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The Summer of Hiking: Monroe Run Trail

 
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The first time my fast red car failed to start when I returned to it after driving to my destination without issue, I called a tow truck. The driver tested my battery and said it was fine. I turned the key again while he watched, and it started. I felt a little silly, and drove on home.

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After it happened another time when I was twenty minutes outside of town, I took it to the shop. Several months and several hundred dollars later, the problem was still not fixed. So not only have I been stuck at home due to the pandemic, but I felt like I couldn’t do the only thing available (drive somewhere and explore outside) for fear of being stranded. I gave a little toast to the red car last Sunday (it was the first car I ever really loved), and I traded it the next day for a still sporty but sturdier model.

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The elation I felt at being able to get in the car and go exploring reminds me a little of how it feels to be well again after being sick. You don’t realize how bad you felt until the contrast of feeling better comes along.

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As I hiked on the Laurel Highlands Trail near Ohiopyle on Monday, I decided this should be the summer of hiking. When I got home, I drew a circle of 120 miles around my house and started researching new hikes. I’ve been on all the ones around here a thousand times.

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Yesterday I decided to try one I found on this list called the New Germany Trail Loop, near New Germany State Park. I’d never been before, but since the hike had the same name as the Park, I figured I would either see a sign or consult a park map once I arrived.

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Solo adventure tip number 1: Do not rely on the internet for directions. It worked just fine to get me to the park itself, but once there I had no service at all. (You may also have noticed that the list of recommended hikes I found provided no directions at all.)

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The park had a beautiful lake with cabins nearby, but the maps did not list any of the hikes from the list. All the ones they did show were less than a mile long. I’d just driven 45 minutes, and I wanted to go some distance.

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I saw a ranger drive by and followed his truck. Turns out he’d never heard of the New Germany Trail Loop, though he worked in New Germany State Park. He told me about the Monroe Run Trail about “5 minutes” away. I wondered as I drove if the ranger’s five minutes was the same distance as mine.

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Turns out you have to go past New Germany State Park on 219N, then past the entrance to Savage River State Forest, and shortly after the shooting range and the correctional center (somehow this pairing seems odd?) is the sign for the Monroe Run Trail.

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The trail’s beginning seems unremarkable. I soon wound my way down through the woods and found the stream that gives the hike its name. I stepped carefully on rocks for the first crossing, but soon gave up and just walked right through. The water felt deliciously cool on my feet and legs.

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I probably crossed the stream at least ten times. The trail winds back and forth across it and doesn’t seem heavily traveled. Someone had been there with a chainsaw to clear the trees that blocked the path, but they didn’t make it very far.

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Someone else long ago built these careful stone walls next to several sections of the stream, and I have no idea why.

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The fact that I had to climb over or duck under as many tree branches as there were stream crossings added a little variety. Sort of the same appeal as those obstacle-filled running races, I thought, though I’ve never done one.

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Nothing like spending several months in your house to make all the shapes and patterns in nature seem nothing short of amazing.

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When I finished, I was really hungry. Solo adventure tip number 2: Bring more snacks!

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I remembered a little cafe called Cornucopia a friend has raved about multiple times, and it turned out to be just a few miles away. They were open for takeout only though, and I didn’t feel like waiting 20 minutes for a meal I’d have to eat while sitting in my car. Luckily there was an ice cream truck not too far away.

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I will confess that I have resisted these kinds of solo adventures for years, though I really don’t know why. It just doesn’t seem fun, I would tell myself when my other self suggested I just go it alone.

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Maybe it’s the pandemic, maybe it’s the new car. Either way, I’m really happy that the independent adventurous self has finally won out.

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Tucson, Part 2

I visited Brian and Susan for the first time in 2005, when I lived in Oregon and they hosted a family gathering. I fell in love with their house then and couldn't wait to come back this time with my camera. These two creatives are so inspiring. I guess that’s what happens when an architect and an artist come together. But also, this landscape. Can you imagine waking up to these mountains every day?

It starts with the handmade purple cactus screen door. And then the gardens. They’re all around the house, and each one is its own beautiful vignette. Everywhere you look, there’s something amazing to discover—both inside and out. Brian designed and constructed must of the structures, including the fence and gate above.

Two standout favorites in the back yard: the old truck above, which Brian took from Susan’s brother Charlie’s ranch and repurposed as a giant funky grill cover, and the striking bright pink wall with the purple cactus cut-out gate below.

I remember Susan telling me years ago about how her mother had arranged groups of plants in pots every year on their patio. She’s carrying on the tradition, and man, is she doing it well.

I learned a lot about the family on this trip. Susan’s mother Mary Jo moved to Tucson in her early twenties because she was told it was good for asthma. Mary Jo’s Aunt Emmy (my Dad’s great-aunt) also relocated from New England to Tucson and opened a gift shop downtown. Both Mary Jo and Aunt Emmy had artistic taste and a good eye—I still have beautiful bits of silk and lace that Emmy gave my mom years ago. It’s very comforting to know that all these strong, artistic, adventurous women are in my genes.

And what better place to move than one filled with natural beauty and amazing art? We happened upon these beautiful Mexican painted animals when we visited Tohono Chul, a botanical garden and gallery where Susan had a painting on display.

And I went crazy over the cacti. Naturally.

We took a short jaunt downtown to historic Fourth Avenue on our last day there. I found this amazing courtyard of repurposed shipping containers selling food and drink. It’s called The Boxyard and appears to be a sort of semi-permanent food truck situation. Doesn’t this seem like something we should recreate here in West Virginia?!?

Public art is clearly a priority in Tucson. They’ve even worked it into their bus stops. That sort of dedication really sets a tone.

On our last night, we got to have dinner with Dad’s cousin Charlie and his partner Connie on their ranch.

The skies are big and wide there, and both the stars and the company were fantastic.

I told Dad he and Charlie look like east and west coast twinsies. Not only were they both wearing tucked-in plaid shirts and work boots, but also identical Carhart jeans. Whoa.

I get it now, why people go to the desert seeking clarity. I came back from this trip having found some, and some artistic inspiration to boot.

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Tucson, Part 1: Sometimes, you just need to go to the desert.

I took the boy on his first trip out west a few weeks ago. My dad and stepmom have taken to RVing down South through the winters, and so we met them in Tucson. Not only does Tucson have the obvious appeal of cacti and mountains, but Dad’s cousin Susan and her husband Brian live there. Which means we got to visit with some of my favorite family members and explore the desert while snowmelt filled the streams and the flowers were in bloom.

The first day we went to the Arizona-Senora Desert Museum. That place was amazing and so well done. It’s a huge maze of pathways that connect multiple botanical gardens and desert animals in natural settings. So many different types of cacti.

Dad wanted to know what I was going to do with all those pictures. At least two blog posts, Dad.

Just two miles from the museum is Saguaro National Park West.

Twice in the last few years I’ve had the feeling that I was exactly where I should be. (Both times I was out west next to some serious mountains. Coincidence?) Hiking through Saguaro National Park was one of those times. I asked Coban if this was the best thing he’d ever done in his whole life, and he agreed that it was.

The next day we headed out of town for a zipline adventure. My second cousin, Emily, who I met for the first time on this trip, is part owner of Arizona Zipline Adventures. She and her partner have created an amazing space with bunkhouses for people to stay in, a communal space for meals and gatherings, and of course, a zipline course that gives amazing views of the mountains and surrounding ranch land.

There’s even a place outside to mine for gold.

Right up the road is the historic 3 C Ranch, which Emily’s family has restored to include guest houses and event space. There was so much color and texture and beauty out there that I couldn’t fit it all in one post. Stay tuned for Tucson Part 2.

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A Slice for Thanksgiving

 

I drove to NYC last week with Coban to meet our lovely friends for a destination Thanksgiving.

You know it’s a cold one when this child is willing to don a scarf. (The next day he snuck back to the hotel room before we left to remove his fleece and leave his gloves behind, perhaps because the long underwear from the parade day had made him sweat. This happens when you run everywhere at full speed.)

The Thanksgiving Day Parade was cold, but quite an experience. My cold-blooded friend brought hand warmers, which we stuffed into our boots, and those and the fleece tights under my jeans kept me feeling fine.

The floats are just huge, but we could barely see the street where they walked. And yet, being there with other people from all over was such a nice bonding experience. It’s not that we made friends and shared blankets, but I felt a certain positive energy from waiting in the same space for an event that everyone agrees is kind of awesome and worth freezing your pants off for a few hours.

I just love the textures of the city. So many designs interplaying every where you look.

I also loved how our kids made their own fun no matter where we were, running and jumping and moving quickly under pipes and railings.

My child jumped up and down with excitement when he saw the first fast-moving subway, but then a few trips later he decided it was old hat. I find both of these positions entertaining. He may make a good traveling companion.

These colors. Imagine this for a quilt pallet. Or a hand-woven rug. Yum.

The new World Trade Center is nicely designed.

And the monuments and the nearby tour guides made me cry.

But I thought it was worth the wait to get to the 360 view at the top.

This was the site of a mini-meltdown, so someone was pouting as he took in the views.

But what can a bagel and lox not fix? Not much. After that, we jumped on the Staten Island Ferry.

I didn’t get a picture of the guys behind the counter at Ray’s Pizza, who grumbled at me when I asked what something was, but I have a nice mental picture of how good it felt to sit drinking a beer and eating a slice on Thanksgiving with old friends while our kids listed things they were thankful for, which of course included pizza and Minecraft.

But hey, we were all really thankful.

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Damn Good Junk

I took the back roads to Davis last weekend, and so many things along the way begged to be photographed. But often the roads are narrow or someone’s house is right next to the thing I want to capture, and I didn’t want to stop. Lucky for me, this amazing junk shop had a pull off directly across the road. Who can resist a man in a roof canoe peddling Damn Good Junk? Not me.

I also liked the look of these gas pumps, leftover from another time but still regally standing guard over the toilet on the porch just behind.

I have a very poor memory for routes, but I realized as I wound my way down old Route 50 through turns so tight you almost feel dizzy in the driver’s seat, that I’d driven that road many times before. Just beyond those tightest of turns is Cool Springs, which is the most entertaining (and long-standing) of destinations. My mom used to stop there every year on her way to Ocean City, Maryland, and the windy roads never failed to make her sick.

Hot dogs, milk shakes, fresh produce, and a coonskin cap are all available for a price in the store that still has an old school lunch counter, and so much more. The walls are lined with taxidermy, and local handmade soaps and jewelry are mixed in with the most amazing collection of kitsch and the tackiest of West Virginia paraphernalia. It’s a real treat for the eyes. The shake was pretty good too.

The grounds include these stone figurines, an array of barnyard animals, and an impressive collection of tractors and train parts that has clearly taken years to assemble.

The closer you get to the mountains, the more beautiful the landscape. I’ve never managed to get a satisfactory photo, but I get excited every single time I come across the giant row of windmills on Backbone Mountain. They’re just so huge and dramatic.

My ultimate destination was the Billy Motel, where I’ve wanted to stay for years. I must say, I was not disappointed.

When I walked into the office/bar to check in, a man in the corner said to his friends around the fireplace, “Well, shall we bash Trump some more?” And I knew I was in the right place.

The rooms have a fresh, modern look, and the tile in the bathrooms is clearly old but revitalized (through lots of elbow grease I learned). On the rough-hewn wooden shelf were two drink tokens to use at the bar, and beside the bed was a collection of stories by Breece D’J Pancake. I love this attention to detail.

Not only is the bar full service and the bartender a friendly source of local knowledge, but the room is filled with midcentury modern gems.

Outside is a quaint little courtyard with a buddha in the corner. Naturally.

Everything was just so well done. AND, it’s in West Virginia. It’s no wonder the New York Times has taken notice.

We drove a short distance to downtown Davis for dinner at Sirianni’s and then danced to the music of a very fun and energetic band called Qiet at the Purple Fiddle.

The next morning I stopped on my way to breakfast at Tip Top to photograph this amazing mural created by Nellie Rose, a local textile artist, who I met for the first time on the dance floor at the Fiddle the night before. She was sweet and friendly, and I couldn’t help but tell her in what I hope was not too much of a fan voice: “I follow you on Instagram!”

Seriously, friends. Thomas and Davis: They’ve got a good thing going right now, and you should totally check it out.

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Montreal Part 2

Parts of Montreal felt very much like Toronto to me, with tall shiny skyscrapers and signs of new construction everywhere. But sprinkled throughout are buildings of weathered stone with carved or cast embellishments. 

We walked through downtown on our way to Mont Royal, which is known for its sweeping views of the city. The hill was visible as we approached, and turns out to be a sizable park with wide switch-backing trails that meander to the top, as well as a set of intense stairs for those who want to go straight up. On our way down we heard the huffing and puffing of the surprising number of people who chose this option, and I'd say the paths were the way to go unless you're in it for a workout.

The streets downtown are wide, like in cities out west, and largely the landscape seems very flat. It wasn't until we crested the hill that I noticed the mountains in the distance.

Multiple carved squirrels perched high in the ceiling of the chateau that sits behind the lookout.

A man stopped to tell us that this church was recently restored, reinforcing the friendly Canadian stereotype yet again.

Montreal's Chinatown is sizable and colorful, and just a few blocks away from Old Montreal.

We managed to see a fantastic Chagall exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts on Easter Sunday before the plague that afflicted me on the second day of our trip really set in. But by then I could no longer spare the energy needed to lift my camera.  

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Montreal Part 1: Griffintown and Old Montreal

Those Canadians did it again. They made me want to move to their country immediately. I feel we should start importing Canadian ways and take back some of the ones we've sent their way.

I flew to Montreal a few weeks ago on Porter Airlines. Normally I find talk of routes and transportation methods to be the epitome of mundane conversation, but I'm mentioning it here because Porter took customer service to a new level. (Admittedly, my trip took place shortly after airline employees dragged a doctor off a plane here in the U.S., sending expectations to an all-time low.)

Nonetheless. Let's start with the fact that the female flight attendants wear jaunty round hats, a throw-back I found quite charming. But they also served my sparkling water in a cute little glass. On the plane. When I got to Toronto and was told to throw away my water bottle as I went through security, I was assured that I would find beverages in the "lounge." Right.

But the lounge turned out to be a large area with plenty of comfortable seats, adjacent to a little cafe where you could help yourself to free sodas, water, coffee (served in a cute little cup with a saucer!), and snacks. Free snacks. This all made me feel quite fancy and not the least bit hangry. And then you know what happened next? They served complimentary wine and beer on the next flight.

To this I say: Step it up American airlines. You can do better. 

I woke up early the first morning and found an old canal just a few blocks from where we stayed in Griffintown. It turns out to be a relatively short walk to the Old Port, though I didn't realize that until later. The light was beautiful and I played around with my new lens until my hands were too cold to keep at it.

While I didn't realize it that morning, the huge building above and below turns out to be Grain Silo No. 5, which was mentioned in one of the guides I consulted before I left.

Griffintown is gentrifying at the moment, so there was an interesting mix of construction cranes, graffiti, and chain stores like West Elm and Starbucks. 

In the afternoon we walked to Old Montreal, which has the infamous European feel I'd read about. 

I was on the lookout for this architectural wonder, known as Habitat 67. Now a housing complex, it was used as a pavilion during the 1967 World's Fair. 

The walkway near the Old Port had a bit of a boardwalk feel, and lots of people were out and about. I liked that this ropes course was there amid all the old historical buildings.

Just a few blocks from the water are the narrow European-like streets, where we had a delicious French lunch. Unlike the French in France, when you speak French to the Canadians, they assume you can actually speak the language and keep on speaking French to you. It's a very polite assumption that I had to counter several times with, ok, ok, that's all I've got. 

We found some interesting galleries here featuring contemporary art that contrasted nicely with the old world surroundings. This part of the city was about as close as I could get to the Montreal I conjured in my head as a girl reading Calico Captive. (A riveting story where a family in New England gets taken by Native Americans and sold as servants in Montreal. I cannot wait until my child stops finding violence scary so I can read this with him.)

Since I may or may not have taken 178 pictures in one day, I decided to break this into two posts. More next time.

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A Weekend in Boston

This activist honey bear featured prominently in the last college apartment I shared with my friend Sarah--a fine (firetrap if you ask my mom) place we affectionately dubbed the Pearl Palace.  His message seemed ever-relevant on my recent trip to see Sarah in Boston the weekend after the election.

I could not resist snapping some pics of Sarah and Ed's adorable apartment when I woke up Saturday morning. Everywhere you look is an interesting little vignette or a lovely piece of art. Plus, who can resist an affectionate multi-toed cat named Unicorn? No one. Clearly.

And then, because this is Boston, where things go on, we went to check out a new community center of sorts that Harvard opened recently. A ceramics class was in progress, and they let us wonder through and check things out.

What better to follow that then a fancy-pants grilled cheese (goat cheese, arugula, fig jam, yum) and beers?

I also could not resist a street selfie here, a la Vivian Maier. If you've not seen this woman's work, you must check it out. She took huge numbers of photos for years while working as a nanny in Chicago and printed very few herself; her work was discovered posthumously and is absolutely amazing, as explained in this documentary.

Sometimes small town life makes me forget how big the world is. Luckily, even a short weekend trip is enough to remedy that.

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