We packed a lot into the five days I was in Prague, including a train ride to Karlstejn, a tiny town whose tourism centers around a nearby castle.
We lunched at an adorable family-run bistro whose owner made the entire patio of diners laugh when he invited us to follow them on Instagram and pointed to the “like” counter mounted on the wall.
Its numbers changed as we got out our phones and liked their page. The kids went wild.
After lunch we hiked on wooded trails behind the castle to a series of rock quarries. The largest has been called the Czech Grand Canyon. They were deep and beautiful. Clever turning former industrial property into a destination by surrounding it with hiking trails.
Another day we visited the Jewish quarter, where four synagogues and one tiny cemetery filled with over 12,000 bodies sit in close proximity.
The artistry in each synagogue was impressive, the associated history sobering.
On the other side of the city, we took an elevator to the top of the Žižkov Tower, whose ugly architecture contrasts sharply with the beautiful neighborhoods around it. The creepy metal babies crawling up the side were created by David Cerny, whose sculptures dot the city. We saw several without even trying, including a man that hangs unnervingly from a pole in a square called “Man Hanging Out.”
At the top of the tower, we were treated to this unbelievable view. Just look at those colors.
And the thoughtful arrangement of the buildings. Each set of housing units surrounds an open courtyard, so everyone has outside access.
Green parks large and small appear at every turn.
Whether it’s classic architecture, edgy sculptures, or graffiti, art is everywhere. Prague has all the charm and history you expect from Europe but with the added edge and grit of a truly creative community.
And not only are there parks. There are things to do and see in them. We found these tiny trampolines next to a paved walking path that led to a giant iconic horse sculpture.
Another day we took a bus to the edge of the city to the Prague Botanic Garden. As you might expect by now, it was thoughtfully designed too.
I listened to a recent Armchair Expert interview with Gretchen Rubin, who talked about using the five senses to be more mindful.
The Botanic Garden put this concept into action.
There were at least three exhibits that invited you to sniff different scents, from natural oils to the different grape varietals grown in the surrounding vineyards.
Sculptures that make sounds when you touch them.
We saw an outdoor movie screen surrounded by chairs where people were relaxing. Another area was filled with hammocks. It struck me how much effort they put into creating different spaces and ways for people of all types to engage with the same property.
The same could be said for my favorite place from the whole trip, which we stumbled upon completely by accident. All because of this big pink sculpture.
It sat just inside a large metal door and acted as a wordless sign that said “Come on in!”
We walked into a “cultural center” known as Kasarna Karlin. Surrounded by five-story buildings that were built to house the Austro-Hungrian army in the 1840s, this multi-faceted social space is part of a larger revitalization effort in a part of the city that declined after a flood devastated it in 2002.
Talk about something for everyone. On the left as you walk in, next to a row of rental scooters and bikes, tucked into a wall of green ivy, is a retro Photo Booth. Behind that is a cluster of yellow chairs where people can lounge and watch an athletic game of volleyball being played in the sand court.
In the center is a large metal unicorn sculpture. Around it are trees and picnic tables where people can eat and drink.
Multiple vendors offered coffee, food, beers, and even fancy mixed drinks.
There’s an outdoor movie screen, surrounded by sunny yellow chairs and tables. And a fire pit. And sometimes techno parties.
And of course, a kids playground with a sandbox and a climbing wall. This wasn’t the first time we saw a space where parents could drink beer while their children played. How civilized.
In case you are still wondering, the answer is yes. You should definitely visit Prague. Its relaxed pace and commitment to free public amenities gives me hope for humanity.
